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Also, when checking the paint, be realistic and don't ignore areas just for the sake of convenience. It will cost you more in time and money later. Typically if one area of the paint is cracked or peeling, then the paint on the entire car is suspect. Maybe the rest of the car just hasn't quite reached that point of decay, but it will shortly. So if you only fix areas that look bad, you'll likely find that you wasted a paint job when the other areas start to crack or peel in a year or two.
Can you get a good paint job from a low buck paint shop? Yes! Professional paint pros and high dollar restorers may scoff, but it's very possible to get a good looking, long lasting paint job from a discount paint shop like Earl Scheib or Maaco. It's not appropriate for every car. I wouldn't hand them the keys to my Shelby GT500 or '53 Corvette, but for those on a budget it's a very good option. The key to a successful budget paint job is to prep the car yourself. Leave nothing to the shop except actually laying down the paint. (note: For purposes of discussion we'll use a classic Mustang as the example, but this process holds true to really any older car)
When it comes to painting your doors your first step will depend on whether they are flat or raised panel. If you have raised panel have both you brush and roller at the ready. Again you must buy the proper roller. I prefer a synthetic high grade 4 inch head. Ask you sales professional to recommend the best one. Foam rollers are only good for stain and a cheap roller heads can leave little hairs in the finish. For the raised panel your first step is to paint the indentations around the panels and then roll it out. I can't stress enough for you to paint light coats. When you are done give it a good visual once over. Drips can take a couple of minutes to develop. Before you begin your second coat give the door a quick sanding with a very light sandpaper. I usually use a fine sanding sponge.